Hyperpigmentation spots: how to prevent their appearance and reduce their appearance?

Melanin is a natural pigment produced by specialized cells called melanocytes, located in the epidermis. It plays a vital role in protecting the skin from the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays, absorbing them, and dissipating their energy. This protective function explains why our skin tans so beautifully after sun exposure. ☀️

Also, when melanin production is well regulated, the complexion remains even. However, if this process becomes unbalanced, it can lead to the appearance of pigment spots .

Hyperpigmentation spots form when melanocytes, the cells responsible for melanin production, produce too much of it. This phenomenon is triggered by tyrosinase, an enzyme that converts tyrosine (an amino acid) into melanin. If this enzyme is overactive, melanin production becomes excessive, leading to a greater production of melanosomes, which are the structures where melanin is stored. These melanosomes are then irregularly transferred to the keratinocytes of the epidermis, leading to the appearance of visible pigment traces on the surface of the skin.

These skin tags can be localized or diffuse , and each type has specific causes and characteristics. Let's take a closer look. 🧐

Also called actinic lentigines , these marks appear on areas most exposed to the sun, such as the face, neck, décolleté, and forearms. They result from prolonged exposure to UV rays, which stimulates the production of melanin.

Solar lentigines appear as small, flat, brown lesions with irregular edges, ranging in color from light to dark brown. In short, spots that look like tan lines... but less sexy. 😡

After an acne breakout, burn, or irritation, the skin sometimes has a nasty habit of leaving dark marks once the inflammation has subsided. These HPI spots appear on different areas of the body and vary in size, resulting from excessive melanin production in response to the aggression.

Also note that acne-prone or atopic skin is even more prone to this, as these skin types react more easily to inflammation and skin irritation. And the worst part? These hyperpigmentation spots can linger for a long time before fading!

The sun is great for vacations… ⛱️ but much less so for our skin! It’s actually the number one culprit when it comes to causing hyperpigmentation spots to appear .

To protect the deep layers of the skin from UV rays, melanocytes switch to overproduction of melanin. The result? Imperfections that appear on our skin... and which, unfortunately, are often difficult to remove. And as if by magic, they always choose the most exposed areas: the face, hands, décolleté... In short, where we would prefer them to remain invisible!

Hormonal fluctuations directly influence the activity of pigment cells. During pregnancy, but also when taking oral contraceptives or hormonal treatments, hormones become real conductors that stimulate melanocytes, leading to excessive melanin production.

This results in the appearance of diffuse marks on specific areas of the face. This phenomenon is particularly common in predisposed people and can of course intensify if the skin is exposed to the sun.

Skin conditions such as acne, eczema, or even poorly healed cuts can sometimes leave undesirable marks once healing begins. The culprit? Inflammation, which triggers an overproduction of melanin in the affected area.

And there you have it… dark spots where the inflammation has occurred. The more intense or prolonged the inflammation, the greater the risk of hyperpigmentation. This phenomenon is particularly common on acne-prone or atopic skin , which reacts more strongly to irritation and inflammation.

Genetics influence sensitivity to pigmentation and exposure to external factors, thus playing an important role in the appearance and distribution of hyperpigmentation spots . If your ancestors had freckles , there is a good chance that you are more likely to develop them.

Genes also influence your skin type, which can contribute to the appearance of hyperpigmentation . For example, a mutation in the FLG gene can make skin atopic and prone to eczema, while overproduction of sebum, often linked to genetics, can cause acne , increasing the risk of skin marks .

Certain medications and products can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. For example, anti-inflammatory drugs, some chemotherapy treatments, and even cosmetics like perfumes can increase your vulnerability to UV rays. Essentially, your skin turns into a real electric battery, ready to react as soon as it encounters a little sunlight. The result? Hyperpigmentation spots can appear, even after moderate sun exposure.

So, what can you do to prevent the appearance of these unsightly skin imperfections ? Focus on prevention!

Here are our three tips for limiting overproduction of pigment and maintaining more even skin.

UV exposure is one of the main culprits for hyperpigmentation spots. To avoid these intruders, apply SPF 50+ sunscreen every day, even in winter (yes, the sun is still there, even when you can't see it!). 🧴 Choose broad-spectrum protection (UVA + UVB), with mineral or chemical filters, to limit the stimulation of pigment cells. And above all, don't forget to reapply every two hours if you're exposed for a long time. Oh, and hats and sunglasses are not options!

Rule one: Avoid picking at your pimples or scars, as this can cause post-inflammatory spots. Adopt a routine tailored to your skin type, with soothing, non-irritating ingredients to control blemishes without creating new marks.

If you are pregnant or using hormonal contraception, it is best to avoid spending too much time in the sun!

And be careful about the products you apply: some citrus essential oils, retinoids, or certain medications can make your skin more vulnerable to UV rays. Think about this before going out in the sun.

To prevent the appearance of pigment spots , there's nothing better than taking care of your skin with a suitable routine. If your skin is reactive , use a sulfate-free cleansing gel, and if it's dehydrated , opt for a moisturizing treatment that will restore the skin barrier and limit pigment imbalances.

And most importantly, don't forget to apply a vitamin C serum or cream every morning! This ingredient fights melanin oxidation and protects your skin from free radicals caused by UV rays and pollution, which helps prevent hyperpigmentation spots.

And if, despite all these precautions, pigment spots still appear, don't panic! There are solutions to help you reduce them. 😉

Here is a selection of ingredients known for their targeted action on hyperpigmentation spots :

• Vitamin C: It is a powerful antioxidant that blocks the oxidation of melanin and lightens the complexion.

• Niacinamide (vitamin B3): this active ingredient is ideal for limiting the transfer of pigments to the superficial layers of the skin.

• Kojic acid: derived from the fermentation of rice, this active ingredient acts directly on melanocytes to limit excessive production of melanin.

• Arbutin: A natural extract derived from hydroquinone, which gently lightens the skin without causing irritating side effects.

For persistent hyperpigmentation spots , several dermatological treatments can be effective. Chemical peels, using exfoliating acids like TCA or AHAs, stimulate skin regeneration. Lasers and pulsed light target and destroy cells responsible for excess melanin. Microneedling, by stimulating collagen, improves skin texture, while cryotherapy can treat age spots. These treatments offer quick solutions, but it's advisable to consult a professional to choose the right one for you.

Preventing and reducing these unsightly hyperpigmentation spots requires, above all, a good understanding of the triggers and an appropriate skincare routine. Whether your skin is acne-prone, atopic, reactive, dehydrated, mature , or young, it deserves your full attention to prevent these imperfections from appearing without warning!